May 26, 2009

Brew-mastering in Brooklyn

Garrett Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster, celebrates the end of the beer-industrial complex.

Michael Gluckstadt

Around the world, Brooklyn has a varied reputation. Its iconic bridge is an instantly recognizable symbol of a thriving urban hub, while the films of Spike Lee and music of Jay-Z showcase the borough's dark side. Immigrants from around the world see it as a welcoming and diverse home. And Garrett Oliver and Brooklyn Brewery have given Brooklyn a worldwide reputation for something else—high-quality beer.

Oliver has been the brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery since 1994, and he has since brought Brooklyn-made malted goodness to the country and the world. As his product's popularity expands every year, he sees it as a rediscovery of the greatness of true beer. The "food facsimiles" are on their way out, and being replaced with quality products. "It's actually a return to normality," he tells Gelf. "People don't realize how weird it was to have one kind of cheese, one kind of beer, one kind of bread. We're getting over it now."

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Article by Michael Gluckstadt

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